First stop in WA was Lake Argyle. This giant reservoir of water can hold around 18 times the water of Sydney Harbour so we didn't feel too guilty about having a few extra minutes in the shower there! It really was a nice spot to relax for a couple of days before heading into some more challenging travel.
Next stop on our grand tour was the incredible Pernululu National Park aka the Bungle Bungle. The 50km road in took almost 2 hours! It was certainly worth the trip. The national park is home to the beehive like sandstone domes created over the eons by rainfall. The distinctive stripes are caused by the difference in clay content and the porosity of the layers. Algae flourishes in the more porous layers resulting in darks stripes whilst the lighter colour is a result of oxidised iron compounds. We walked through Cathedral gorge, Echidna chasm and Piccaninny Gorge but we really had the best view from the air. On open doored chopper was the way to go and allowed us to see the restricted areas in the north that are not accessible by foot. It really is a spectacular place. Incidentally, the tooth fairy managed to find Charlie there so we figured she must also travel via 4WD, or perhaps in a helicopter!
A quick stop in Kununurra allowed us to stock up for the Gibb River road. After an historic grocery bill and several trips to Liquor land we were ready to tackle the 416km dirt road from the turn off north of Kununurra to Derby, plus a few side trips. Corrugations, rocks, dust, river crossings, road trains, dramatic terrain, more dust……..did I mention the rocks?! It really is quite a drive however despite the aforementioned adversities it a fabulous way to experience the Kimberley region. We were lucky enough to pick up some travel comrades, the Howards from Tassie. Anita, Mick and Annie (who is just a little younger than Gil) joined us was great company and also handy if either of us had run out of cold beer!
We initially based ourselves at Home Valley, a beautiful, grassy resort just 63km along the way over looking the Cockburn range. A great spot close to the illustrious El Questro wilderness park. We enjoyed a peaceful few days there visiting Zebedee Springs, the “township” at El Questro and even secured a pony ride for Charlie and Annie. I don’t think we realised how lucky we were as that was the last green grass we were to camp on until we reached Broome!
We turned off the Gibb and ventured on to Drysdale River station on the Kulumburu road. Mitchell Plateau was our next challenge as we were all keen to experience the Mitchell Falls. After a refuel and stock up on water we headed to King Edward Falls and then took on the Mitchell plateau track which makes the Gibb River Rd look rather tame! 83km and two hours later we had made it to base camp, what a ride! Slow and steady was definitely the key to making it all in one piece.
The walk to the falls is around 5km so we opted for the rather convenient "walking in and helicopter out"version – think of the children! The helicopters were fully booked on the day we wanted to walk so we decided to stay an extra night and spend the day visiting a nearby lookout and Surveyors Pool. The walk in was beautiful. Waterholes, swimming beneath waterfalls, gorgeous gorges and thankfully, plenty of places to cool off along the way as it was very warm. We were well rewarded with the four tiered Mitchell Falls flowing beautifully despite being towards the end of the dry season. The views from the ground and from the helicopter ride home (best decision ever, six minutes!!) were amazing.
Whilst we were in the mood for rough roads, Jase and I decided that a quick jaunt to Kalumburu was in order. Why not? We were practically there anyway, what is another 100km? My 4WD skills were poetry in motion as we headed up there. At times it felt like we were just driving up creek beds! Over two hours later we arrived at Kalumburu Mission, the most northern settlement in WA. It has a colourful history including WWII landings and is now know for it’s amazing fishing and pristine beaches. We enjoyed the fabulous museum there and had lunch at McGowans Island beach. The main reason we didn’t stay was that Charlie and Gil find danger a difficult concept to grasp, especially when tempted with crystal clear water and a white sandy beach! This area is probably infested with more dangerous creatures that you are likely to encounter in a life time! Everything from Salties to stingers were apparently our to get us, swimming was out, tricky when the temps were pushing 35 deg. So it was back to safer waters and on to Manning Gorge.
Another lovely walk in to a pristine swimming hole and waterfalls all to ourselves, it really was special. We spent the day swimming, exploring, jumping off rocks and relaxing in the shade. A very hot walk out of there was rewarded with another swim at the end, just lovely. Canoeing through Diamond Gorge, paddling in Bells and then a lovely winding stroll through Windjana, such an extraordinary place.
Tunnel creek was certainly a highlight as we waded our way through waist deep water in bat filled caves, it was an entertaining experience at times, Woodsy and I both fighting for the torch as we really couldn't see a thing for a lot of the time! The boys really enjoyed the adventure, Jase and I just happy to cool off in a cave!
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| Purnululu National Park |
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| Sunset overlooking the Cockburn Range |
Take care all,
Love, Chippy xx
